2008 Kacaba Pinot Noir

I first tasted the Kacaba wines at a tasting event at the Brickworks and was impressed. I was down in Niagara this past weekend doing some mountain biking in Short Hills Provincial park so I made a point of stopping in at Kacaba. It was quite busy at all the wineries this weekend. I walked in looking a little rough coming off of a mountain bike, and in spite of this found the staff at Kacaba VERY attentive, approachable and knowledgeable. Hats off to them!

On pouring this wine it is the typical light garnet color for a pinot noir. On the nose this is a clean pinot noir with none of the traditional earthy notes coming through. Instead there are some lovely ripe cherries that dominate the bouquet. On the mid pallet this wine is a very well made smooth Pinot. Again ripe cherries, some rustic flavors but all in all a smooth well made pinot. If your looking for a boisterous pinot, this one won’t be to your liking. On the finish the wine has lovely chaulky dry tannins that build as you continue to drink the wine. This can only be experienced if your enjoying the wine without food. Give a bit of time in between sips and you will experience this additional layer of complexity of the wine. This is however, a VERY food friendly wine. We paired it with a prime rib and it went VERY well. I would give this wine a solid 90. Given Pinot’s are often more expensive the price point on this wine $22.95 is a good deal. I can’t imagine this will last a long time, I wouldn’t buy too many. But given you can’t get this at the LCBO, a trip to the winery is in order. A crying shame isn’t it! Well done Kacaba!

Kacaba Winery

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Hidden Bench Fall Release Event

Fast post as it is via mobile phone.

Great event, with owner, winemaker and front of house helping us run through the 8 wines on this release.

Highlights:
The wine (yes this is ‘copping out’) and great food pairings, very nice to have the intimate touch most other wine clubs ignore.

-In all seriousness look at the 2008 Felseck Chardonnay to be sold out fast as it is outrageously good. A Chardonnay lovers chardonnay it was brilliant.

-The 2010 Viognier is the winemaker’s star right now, it has great potential with low availability.

– The 2009 Estate Pinot Noir has good potential and will sell out quickly. If you are a Pinot fan, 2009 will be a great year and Hidden Bench Pinot’s are tremendous, may want to stop by and grab 1 or 10.

– The 2008 Locust Lane Pinot Noir is a big wine and may turn out to be the best of the eight.

Great day all around!

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Saturday Niagara and an Interesting Link

We are off to Niagara for an event by one of our wine clubs (Hidden Bench today), so maybe a picture and a write up later (if I can manage both!). In the meantime, here is an interesting link: a good friend has quit his job and motorcycling the Americas (all of it!) and it is pretty impressive: Greg’s Motorcycle Adventure. I have added to the links on this page in case you want to check back periodically on the ‘crazy’ man’s travels. Good luck Greg!

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2009 Quinto do Crasto Douro

Another one of the wines we had at Salt Wine Bar a few weeks back, this wine left a much poorer impression on me. Quinto do Crasto is a large Portuguese producer located on the Douro River. Well known for their ports and red table wines, the winery has had some solid wines in the past. As this was a short outing, so too will be the write up.

A dark, deep red colour presented itself in my glass; it was not to be the last of the stark notes on this wine. With blackberry and cinnamon on the nose and the colour of the wine gods I was hoping this Tinta Roriz blend was going to hit it out of the park. Sadly the first few sips were muted, almost dull. The tannins, while firmly in your mouth, were just overwhelming and not enjoyable. The oak is distinctly present, almost as if it was trying to hide poor fruit. Overall this was a medium-full bodied young wine that was a distinctive miss or the hit-or-miss scale. Sadly it failed to live up to the price point that Salt charges for it. If you are looking for the wine, the going price appears to be ~$14-16 a bottle through online retailers. For the wineries tasting notes click here.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 81 out of 100.

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Interesting New Link

For those that know me, know I love to cook as well as drink wine. For the longest time I had a link up for Erika Strum’s mostly foodie blog. Well times change and Erika has moved on to a Wine Enthusiast project. I updated the link to her blog on the site, but see this link to see a new buying guide from the creative minds over that way.

Email me with feedback and I will pass it on, or better yet email them directly!

Enjoy

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2010 Calamus Pinot Gris

If you are looking for 3100 Glen Road in Jordan, take your time and try not to think about roads changing names or bending, all of this may lead you to not making it to Calamus Estate Winery. If it was possible for civic planners to hide an address, or at least disguise it, the folks who put together the road system in and around the vineyard almost succeeded. Nestled beside the Ball’s Falls Conservation area (yes there is a joke in there somewhere) the scenery alone is worth the drive up to taste one of Niagara’s little wineries.

Derek Saunders and his wife Pat Latin started Calamus in 1999 with their purchase of 14 acres, since that time they have followed their own path. With an interesting name (Calamus means arrow or some may also say ‘reed pen’) and an onsite observatory this is not a winery run by a large company. Having met both in person and taken time out to hear their story and their passion, I can honestly say that the vineyard is on good footing as well as direction. But what about their wine? Let’s move on to the tasting.

Pinot Gris, as per the owners, is Calamus’ signature wine and the 2010 we had was suggested with pride. Its pale straw like colour was accompanied by gentle citrus notes. A few swirls and the citrus fruits are in your nostrils and waiting to jump out at you. But funny enough they do not overwhelm on the first few sips. A good even acidity follows the lime and grapefruit and the wine shows an even balance. The more we got into the wine the more we noticed peach and softness the first few sips did not deliver. Light mineral notes seep into your mouth and we started to notice a tad bit of floral notes. For a Pinot Gris we were pleasantly surprised and can say that for the price point ($17.20) it is clear why Pat and Derek are fond of this wine. If you are looking for a gentle start to your dinner party or a wine to sip and enjoy the last of summer you will not go wrong with this wine.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 87 out of 100.

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San Diego Traveler Report

After a week away here are a few snippets on the trip, including restaurant and hotel notes. Will catch up on wine reviews over the next day or so.

Red Pearl Restaurant (Gaslamp)
In the middle of the Gaslamp district this Asian fusion restaurant stands out from the steak and seafood joints that accompany almost every corner of downtown. Fusion is not for everyone and if you enjoy spicy twists then this may be the restaurant for you. Neither touristy nor pretentious for that matter, the Red Pearl has a deep selection of house cocktails and spirits. The menu itself is split into small and large, both of which are easy to share.

The Good: The mango fried rice is a pleasant surprise with sweet undertones. The house cocktails are full of flavor, even if they are not on the ‘strong’ side. The chili prawns may be some of the best spicy/sweet prawns I have the world over. Service was the perfect balance of helpful without being over bearing.

The So-so: The dumplings (pot stickers) were the lowlight, but edible none the less. Too meaty and on the light side of flavor, steer clear as the rest of the menu is on the solid side.

Cowboy Star Restaurant & Butcher Shop (Gaslamp)
This restaurant is on the higher end of the scale for downtown San Diego. Do not let the western motif fool you; this is a high end steak house that takes pride in all aspects of the dining experience. Immaculate tables compliment the detailed staff. The menu is broad enough to not corner you into steak, but make no bones about it, this is a steakhouse.

The food was excellent; the wine selection was diverse and allowed for both small and big budget selections. Desert appeared to be delicious, but as normal I prefer my calories to be in the form of red wine. Overall this restaurant will impress your clients, out of town guests or the foodie friend who is willing to go mainstream with a ‘steak house’.

Top of the Hyatt (Gaslamp)
A drink stop only (which is really how the Hyatt markets this top of the sky lounge) at one of the best views of San Diego Bay/Harbour, this stop features overstated wood and trim.

The Top of the Hyatt seems to be torn between hip, cool lounge and old-man parlour motif. If you are looking for a good view and standard cocktails, this is a must, the US Navy ships, helicopters and every day run of the mill million dollar yachts dot the skyline as you sip your drink. Matching the wealthy harbor equipment are the prices, which go hand in hand with the elevation. If you are not use to Manhattan or Toronto cocktail prices, do not take the ride up to the ‘top’ of the Manchester Hyatt as your blood pressure may also rise to the occasion.

All that said, the view more than compensates for the prices and like most major metropolises around the world, it is always worthwhile climbing to the top to have a good view of the sprawl beneath.

Influx Café (Little Italy)
We decided to not go to my regular Caffe Italia on India St. in Little Italy and to try out this ‘newish’ java shop. Cafés were excellent, staff has hip and trendy (maybe a tad ironic), the wifi was free and the oatmeal very good. Worth the morning stroll to sit in the sun and sip your caffeine fix on a leisurely morning.

Buon Appetito (Little Italy)
I took a group of 8 to this Little Italy mainstay. As per normal the food was excellent, the staff helpful and knowledgeable and the wine selection outstanding. If you are looking for a good classic Italian meal while out and about in San Diego, you cannot go wrong with Buon Appetito, not to mention the pricing is fair if not an almost bargain for the quality.

Phil’s BBQ (I-5 & I-8)
I took a group of 7 to Phil’s to engross ourselves in BBQ. The tip steak sandwich was good, and the baby back ribs flawless, from the tenderness, the fall off the bone all the way to the sauce. Our service was even excellent with a very helpful staff member making sure we had all we needed.

This is a BBQ house so do not expect fancy, quiet or gourmet. You are coming here to get dirty and filled full of smoky goodness. Just a good stop all around.

El Pescador Fish Market (La Jolla)
We got this idea for lunch from a top ten list of San Diego. Helpful staff did not make up for the dry fish tacos. While the chowder was quite tasty we will have to come back to try some sandwiches before we write this off our list of future visits. From the crowds we must have just had an off day.

Burger and Beers (El Centro, CA)
Mediocre food was served by a distracted waitress, not on my recommend list unless you must have a hard to find beer (like the Cooper’s Pale Ale I had to have). This is my second and last visit to the restaurant as the food quality is not in line with the pricing.

Manchester Grand Hyatt
We spent seven nights here, our second visit in the past 3 years. Where to start… First off this was for a small conference I organized, bringing team members from as far away as Cobar Australia. The event/catering/conference staff was excellent in their detail and planning. All the days we had exactly what we agree upon and needed. Instead of going into paragraph by paragraph of the minute details, let’s look at the good and the bad:

The Good:
– Perfect location for Gaslamp & the San Diego Convention Center
– Catering team are on the ball and look after you well (Sara Lacro)
– The Diamond/Platinum and Bell desk staff were excellent; accommodating and helpful.

The Mediocre:
– Rooms are not up to Grand Hyatt status. Good beds and average size but very small and below average quality bathrooms. Overall, a below average room when comparing it to Hyatts in Hong Kong, Seoul or even Vancouver. If this was just a Hyatt than I would not be mentioning it.
– Concierge staff was hit or miss on the basics, like making reservations. I never expect miracles, but a decent suggestion and the ability to book a reservation is par for the course the world over, it was challenging here.
– With such a large pool area, the pool itself is actually quite small, and with 700+ rooms can be over-crowded easily.

The Bad:
– Of the 30+ hotels I have stayed in this year this was the worst housekeeping service by far. From failing to refill basics to throwing hotel bathrobes onto our luggage it was well below average.
– Cost for quality, aka value.
– Hyatt Regency Room is the smallest I can remember on record, and with a full hotel for 2 of the 7 nights, it was full to capacity and beyond on the two visits. To have an executive lounge as small as that, for a hotel with two 30+ story towers of rooms, is atrocious.

Would I stay here again? It would depend on the rate for the room, but for $200+ I would not, for $150 I would.

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2008 Pedras do Monte

This is a mini review based on a tasting at Salt restaurant in Toronto.

A Portuguese red blend with a strong nose of oak and red fruit. Tannins were bold and there is no doubt this needs some more time. Despite the wine’s zeal it has good fruit, equal balance and good spiciness. For $8/glass it is Salt’s cheapest red by the glass and will not disappoint.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 84 out of 100.

Note: How wild is this world becoming? This is being published at 36,000′ going cross continent.

20110828-144145.jpg

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Niagara Wine Week – Delayed

I am at 36,000′ currently and will be delayed getting out the final review (2010 Calamus Pinot Gris) for a few days. In the meantime I have a few short reviews that should pop up.

As I will be in San Diego for a conference for the week, I will do my best to get some tasting notes and mini reviews up as well.

-Canadian Wine Guy

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2007 Fielding Estate Meritage

A bit of a shorter write up tonight, apologies to Fielding Estates in advance but a busy Saturday and prep for a week away has eaten into my time to blog.

Fielding followed Angels Gate on the 6th day and it was also not the first visit to this vineyard. Fielding is nestled into Beamsville Bench, neighbour to both Angels Gate and Hidden Bench. Over the years we have had many Fielding experiences and all of them have led us back to the Bordeaux varietals and blends that Fielding seems to do best. As recently as two months ago we polished off a 2004 Meritage that was ready to drink and still had a great deal in the bottle to offer the average drinker, which is shocking for the weak 2004 reds from Niagara. As we have discussed price recently, it is important to note that Fielding is now in the top 5 for the highest prices for Niagara wines. Their high end reds consistently are near the top in price. While this may not matter to many of our readers, for some $60 for a bottle of red is a great deal of money. To put into consideration, Trius Grand Red and Château des Charmes Equuelus are considered cheap compared, and while the tasting is to follow, I am not personally sure the Fielding price properly reflects their quality versus their rivals. Anyways, so much for a short post, let’s move onto the tasting.

Knowing the wine from the tasting, we decanted this for a solid 45 minutes to allow it to open and soften as the bold 2007 year rears its head with this offering. A deep red, almost purple accompanies this wine and the nose is solid with red and purple fruits with hints of coffee. The first few sips shows you how heavy and solid this wine is. Having won a gold medal at the 2009 Canadian Wine Awards you have to wonder how or why, not quality wise, but simply this is a big wine and two years ago it would have been harsher. Good strong tannins with a long finish follow up my comments above and really drive home the thought that this wine has a solid 5 to 7 years to settle. It is a big wine. Despite the heaviness, the fruit and subtle hints are here and you will see caramel, coffee and spice complimenting the plum and dark cherry. This is a very good wine and if you have the wallet to purchase a few I highly recommend this as a great Niagara red.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 89 out of 100 with points deducted for the elevated price compared to its peers.

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2010 Angels Gate Pinot Gris

Angels Gate Winery is located on the Beamsville Bench, literally seconds/minutes from a handful of other vineyards recently reviewed (Hidden Bench, Tawse) or to be reviewed shortly (Fielding, Rosewood). Nestled midway up the Niagara Escarpment, the views as you drive in and walk around the property are fantastic. Green vineyards, blue skies, Lake Ontario in the distance, and on the day we visited you could make out Toronto, some 70 kms as the crow flies away. Within its beautiful main building is a good lunch option for anyone looking for a restaurant to complement their wine oriented day. We stayed for our Terrace Lunch and can easily recommend it to anyone.

So if you are keeping score so far, we have food and a view. What about the wine? Opened in 2002, Angels Gate is more than just a beautiful property; it is a producer of over 14,000 cases of wine a year and encompasses six vineyards as well as utilizing two premium grape growers. Grapes grown are: Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Shiraz, Gamay, Viognier and lastly, Pinot Gris. It is the Pinot Gris that we will be talking about today, and amazingly enough this is one of three Pinot Gris wines that was recommended to me over the course of the Niagara Wine Week. Thought to be a mutant of the Pinot Noir grape, it gets its name from the conical shape of its grape bunches (pinot) and the grayish-blue (gris) colouring of its fruit. Our Italian friends call it Pinot Grigio and you are hard pressed to not find a Gris/Grigio on a retaurant patio during the summer months. If truth be told I am not a Pinot Gris fan, often it is pale, light and not much more, and the nice thing about this week has been the three Pinot Gris’ that have been almost forced onto me for trying and tasting. They opened my eyes slightly to the wine and I will ensure that I include having some from time to time just to keep an open mind. Let’s move on to the tasting.

A very pale wine, this clear glass brought forward pear and tropical fruit. As you pour a glass and get into the tasting you will realize that this wine has good acidity that balances well with understated fruit. Pineapple and grapefruit fight for your attention. As the wine warms and opens you will note more citrus (lime) on your palate yet it retains its crispness. This is a good example of a white wine that is crafted to consume now, the fruit is strong enough to give the mouth something to enjoy but not so that it takes away from the acidity and cleanliness of the wine. At $19.95 it should fit into most people’s budgets and should suit those who are fans of Gris/Griggio.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 85 out of 100.

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2008 Hidden Bench Felseck Vineyard Pinot Noir

I am rather shocked that I have never reviewed a single Hidden Bench wine before. If you were to ask me to name my top three wineries in Niagara at any given time, I can guarantee you that it would find itself on the list with consistent regularity. I like the care they put in, their attention to detail, the small nuances and of course I love their wine. I have yet to have a wine from them that I failed to enjoy. Why you may say “CWG you love all wine” and would not be far wrong, but I have often had bad/mediocre/overpriced wine and I simply try to never do it again. With Hidden Bench this has not been an issue. Located in the Beamsville Bench, the winery spends a great deal of time and effort to make ‘artisanal’ wines. Like the large movement towards ‘craft’ beers in the premium beer market, artisanal, or craftsman made wine is an ever increasing niche. As with craft beers, the effort and quality come with an elevated price. The winery is somewhat pricey when it comes to Niagara wines and is rather exclusive, as many of their wines are simply not available to non wine club members. All this is a better reason to make a regular trip to the vineyards and visit the tasting area, or better yet join the wine club.

With the scary parts over with (price and scarcity) we can concentrate on a few other interesting tidbits about Hidden Bench. The winery has three principle vineyards and Pinot Noir is one of, if not the most, the important grapes grown. The Felseck vineyard is where this wine comes from and has turned into Hidden Bench’s Pinot Noir superstar (at least in my opinion). 2008 was a difficult year for the region and it created an environment where producers had to work very hard to get good quality fruit with very low yields. Hidden Bench was no different, in fact from their product notes you can see how little fruit they got from the vines: “A meager 10-12 bunches per vine were left to hang in order to encourage ripening“. All that work helped them produce this stunner of a wine, let’s get into the tasting.

I choose to go without decanting, instead allow some time in Pinot glasses before jumping into the tasting. The colour was a nice dark red and the initial nose of plum and cherries was evident. The first few sips hinted at a firm amount of tannins and a long finish. As we got into the wine more, the fruit stayed consistent while a distinct earthiness reared its head. The tannins, while firm, do not overwhelm and the complexity is extremely evident. The finish improved over the course of the glass (and eventually two…) and my mouth was insistent on more. This is an extremely polished wine; it had the right balance of acidity, fruit, tannins and nose to make it a star in the 2008 Niagara Pinot Noir grouping. With the price ($48) and the rarity (few bottles left at the vineyard itself) you will reward yourself by making a trip, buying a few and letting some age for 3-5 years in the cellar. Overall an excellent wine.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 90 out of 100.

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2008 Ravine Vineyards Merlot

Last Friday we made our first ever visit to Ravine Vineyards. Nestled into the little community of St-David’s I have been aware of the winery for some time but had never made the effort to visit it. Why? I have no excuse or reason as I have driven past it on many occasions. Ravine would be considered a “newer” house in the Niagara wine world and is centered around one of the most significantly ancestral homes in the entire region. This accidental winery came into being as an effort to stem an urbanization of the St-David’s area, and I for one can say that we are better off for it. If you exclude the wines themselves, Ravine produces some of the best breads in the area and the bistro offers both lunch and dinner dining that are affordable and well crafted.

As for the wines themselves, the winery has 34 planted acres that are on the St-David’s bench with usual suspects planted. Being on the bench and the proclaimed hottest micro climate of the region leads to both issues in hot years and advantages in cold years (in relation to other local producers). The wine we are reviewing today is from the difficult 2008 growing year, one in which most vineyards found truly challenging. Of all the wines that were currently for sale, the one put forward to us by the staff was this Merlot. I am a little shocked as their botrytis influenced Riesling was very tasty and left good impressions on us, but I am pleased as it showed a great amount of confidence in the red wine from a rough year. With that we will jump to the tasting.

We decided to decant this just before drinking, as it was a 2008 I did not think it needed much time out of bottle but I felt it deserved a chance to open slightly before we consumed. The colour was a nice bright red and the initial nose brought forth red berries and tobacco. The first few sips introduced a lighter than expected red with smooth tannins and more ripe berries. The tobacco nose remained and the wine for it’s part proved consistent from start to finish. The wine neither dazzled, sadly, nor disappointed. It’s fruit expressed itself and the oaking made it presence known. Acidity seemed perfect and the balance overall was good. It is odd that I look at this wine as being “ho hum” as there was nothing negative to say and it is a good drink now (you could cellar for 1 to 3, but no more) Merlot which is a tad on the expensive side at $34. Ravine Vineyards will definitely get another visit and I look forward to trying their upcoming releases in the years to come.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 86 out of 100.

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2007 Château des Charmes Pinot Noir

After a long hard week of driving Gertrude, playing a few rounds of golf and visiting two wineries a day in the Niagara region I decided that Monday was a much needed rest day, and as such headed to the office and did not blog. Who would have thought that tasting wine and driving a classic Ferrari were such tiring activities? As I am starting to reflect back on the week, not the individual wines, I am finding that the week produced quite a few highlights and very few disappointments. All of which went to remind me how much the area has to offer and how nice it is to be a short hour to hour and half drive from it all. Speaking of experiences well on the positive side, it was Friday of last week that we headed over to St-David’s and visited both Ravine Vineyards and Château des Charmes, coming away from both experiences with great wine and memorable experiences. We will start with the Bosc family’s Pinot Noir.

Paul Bosc is a graduate from the University of Burgundy and has been one of the leader’s of the Canadian wine industry since the late ’70s. So why is it we never truly associate Château des Charmes with burgundy style wines despite his solid regional training/education? It could be that, for all the wines that the Bosc’s put forward, Equuleus and Gamay Droit remain the foremost in most people’s minds. Odd for sure, especially for someone so accomplished in the nuances that are the pesky Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. The wine we are discussing comes from the vineyard named for the very man himself, the Paul Bosc Vineyard. If you are travelling to the Château along St-David’s Road you are actually moving along the dividing line that separates the St-David’s Bench from the Paul Bosc Vineyard not just on paper but soil, sediment and climate wise. Many years back you could easily see this evidence when the winery produced two single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons and today it is demonstrated best when comparing their two current Chardonnay’s from each vineyard. If you every get a chance, I highly recommend this micro lesson in terroir by driving over and tasting both Chards side by side. Sadly there is no St-David’s Bench Pinot Noir to compare this wine to, if there had been I may have had a mental breakdown from excitement (yes I am easy to please). Before we go into the tasting, I’d like to thank both Glen for his excellent presentations and knowledge; and Michelle for setting up the tastings, you both made the experience exceptional and continue to make me want to come back. On to the tasting!

I decided not to decant the bottle at home as I remembered the bold, yet elegant, wine from the initial tasting being poured from a newly opened bottle. What came out was no different, a strong nose of pepper and black cherry presided over the deep ruby red colour. The first sips bring forward a mixture of plums, earthiness and red fruit. As you start to delve into the bottle more you will find hints of tobacco, more spice (again pepper came to mind) and bold red tree fruits. The tannins, while firm, are not overwhelming. The wine is well balanced from tip to finish and while the wine is drinking extremely well now I would expect this to continue to evolve over the next few years and produce a stunner come 2014-2016. Overall this is very much a Pinot Noir you can put against much higher priced Burgundy (or even Niagara) wines and it will hold it’s own. At $35 this is not inexpensive, but for the quality but it is priced low for other Niagara region top flight Pinot’s. It is difficult not to reward or upgrade the subjective rating based on the value and as such you will see a rating below that (as usual) demonstrates my view on quality, price and desirability.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 90 out of 100.

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2010 Strewn Terroir Riesling-Gewürztraminer

Strewn is a vineyard just on the outskirts of Niagara on the Lake (NotL), only a stone’s throw from Lake Ontario. Only a dozen years old now, it is a relatively young winery that is probably better known for its restaurant (La Cachette) than the winery itself. As a side note, if you are looking for a lunch spot in NotL make sure you drop by, the outdoor seating overlooks the vineyards and the staff mirrors the food, excellent. Strewn as a winery still represents one of the least expensive wine makers in NotL so for the budget minded it is an excellent place to go and taste their wines. We are going to talk about a wine from their Terroir range which comes from their best of the best, but they have two other levels which should work for those not wanting to put out the more expensive options.

The visit to the vineyard was a pleasant one with a lunch preceding tastings. I decided to forego tasting anything but the Terroir series and when it was all said and done the Riesling-Gewürztraminer was suggested as the review wine of choice. As the only blended white wine of the week (for review) it was a bold choice, not only for the fact that Strewn has several single varietals that could have been chosen, but also as the market for blended whites out of Niagara is not huge, especially not a higher priced offering. Yet here we are, so it must have made the cut for the Strewn staff. On to the tasting!

The pale coloured white wine instantly rears its Riesling head when you get a sniff, with a slight bit of petrol notes and crisp floral (think lilacs initially). The first few sips will bring forward a gentle acidity with distinctive but not overwhelming minerality. The fruit is gentle and compliments the structure well. The finish is long and you will start to get pineapple and peach notes the more you allow the wine to warm and open. Overall this is a good summer white wine with the potential to open a multi-course meal without leaving too much on the palate to take away from the food. A good offering from a young and often forgotten vineyard, at $17.95 you will find this wine is easy on the pocket book and will not embarrass you, not too bad for a sub $20 wine.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 84 out of 100.

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2007 Stratus Petit Verdot

If you have ever driven down the 55 in Niagara, through Virgil to Niagara on the Lake, you have seen Stratus. An elegant looking set of buildings on the right hand side lead into a visually pleasing tasting/showing room (as the Australian’s call it: Cellar Door). In fact, it is one of the nicest tasting areas I have been in. One of the downfalls of such a nice tasting area is (in my opinion, as per normal) inflated pricing. Someone has to pay for the building and the remarkably well rounded staff. Add to the fact that the vineyard itself is on the principle tourist route and you have a recipe for higher prices. Does this affect the quality? Not in any way. J-L, the winemaker, is old school in his direction and skill, with a severe case of quality over quantity. The wine you buy from Stratus is of good quality and you are paying for craftsmanship, not just a label or building.

When it was suggested to me to have the Petit Verdot as the wine to drink and review I was excited. Probably the most forgotten of the Bordeaux varietals (some may argue Carmenèrem is) it is rarely found in a regional or Meritage blend, let alone as a single varietal offering. So unique is this wine, should you go looking, you will be hard pressed to tour the wine regions of the world and find more than a handful of Petit Verdot only bottles. So what does this mean? It means it is a challenging grape that matures late and is often no more than an afterthought.

What did it taste like you ask? Well it was bold, young and nowhere near ready to show its true colours. A deep, almost blood red colour with heavy red tree fruit nose (think plum and black cherry) will hit you fast and early. Black pepper and licorice will follow the fruit but not overwhelm. Once you begin to drink the wine you will find that the tannins are heavy, the wine is large and you are sure that you should have decanted it for more than the 15 minutes that you happened to have done. The acidity is balanced enough despite the griping tannins and you will experience some chocolate and cassis on the finish as well. Over all this is a bold offering, one which, while good, would not have been my first choice from the vineyard. The Stratus Red is probably the most well round wine, like the child that excels at the 3 R’s while being a 3 sport star; meanwhile the Petit Verdot is the smaller stature gifted artist child with a mean streak, it that requires more attention but is none the less rewarding. Just my 2 cents, Stratus does produce better wines than this, but this is quite interesting, even for $38.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 86 out of 100.

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2006 De Sousa Reserve Meritage

In all my time down in Niagara (either living here for a short period or just visiting) I have never found my way up Quarry Road to De Sousa Vineyards. Of the 43 vineyards that dot the Niagara Escarpment/Twenty Valley/Beamsville Bench it is easy to skip or miss one now and then. So it was with that thought in the back of my mind that caused me to turn up Quarry Rd and seek out De Sousa. If I can be totally honest I have been asked already twice “Why?” from people within the industry, and while that is a harsh question I do believe that anyone who has had a winery for over 20 years deserves a shot.

The vineyard has a good reputation for it’s Portuguese styled port made from their Touriga Nacional plantings. Unfortunately upon our arrival it was announced that they had no port and it was already a sad start, as we do love port. The main building could be dropped into any portion of the wine regions in Portugal and not look out of place. Inside you get more of a feel of a guest shop than a cellar door. The tastings were all Reserves and when asked for their choice, it was this 2006 Meritage that was suggested. A quick note on the 2006 Vintage year for Niagara, while there are some hidden gems, for the most part the reds from this year are inconsistent and nowhere near some of the region’s great years. So without any more fuss nor muss we shall review it.

When decanted the wine had a distinctive rust colour and the nose was very smokey. A few swirls of the glass and the smokiness remains without distinguishing itself, slight hints of plum and red fruit also follow it. The first sips are soft and very light, not something expected from a Meritage. Meritage being a blend of the three principle grapes from Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (it can also contain the other Bordeaux grapes of Petit Verdot, Malbec or Carmenèrem, but rarely do). This wine is beyond “drink now”, it is soft and the fruit is dulled, as are the tannins. Unfortunately the wine offers very little to the average drinker and if you own some, make sure you drink over the upcoming months. Sadly this was our first “miss” of the Niagara Wine Week, we will return at some later date to grab a bottle or two of port and try and give De Sousa a second chance.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 78 out of 100.

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Friday Night of Niagara Wine Week

No review tonight but two tomorrow. Today was day 6 which included a fantastic trip to Chateau des Charmes and Ravine Vineyard. This led to extra wine drinking and thus no review (it’s Friday folks!).

De Sousa and Stratus reviews tomorrow.

Sip well.

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NV Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catherine Rosé Brut

As the first annual Niagara Wine has progressed it has been interesting to see and experience the reactions of the tasting room staff when I announced my intentions. So far the week has seen: Tawse, Malivoire, Strewn, Stratus, Angel’s Gate, Fielding, De Sousa, Coyote’s Run and Henry of Pelham visited. Each reaction has been different, some have been skeptical in the “oh what do you want for free” (despite the definitive statement that whatever wine they choose, 2 bottles will be purchased). Some have been overwhelmed by the task and others have taken it in stride and gone into the good and glory of their vineyards. It was the visit to Henry of Pelham so far that has been the rock star of visits. While almost every other stop has been an excellent experience, this one was above and beyond. It actually started on a sour note with the Coach House not being open for lunch (my fault for not checking), but as is often the case we made lemonade from lemons and skipped lunch to do tastings.

If you know nothing about Henry of Pelham or the Speck family, I highly suggest you follow this link to get some background on both. Heritage is important at the winery and you can sense it from the staff. We seemed to get lucky on Tuesday and we had two people look after us, primarily Viktoria with an assist from Trudy. With tremendous knowledge they led us through the ins and outs of almost all the wines produced at the vineyard. As we progressed from the sparkling through the whites and on to the wide selection of reds it was easy to see why past visits were as much fun as this one. Viktoria followed up her brilliant first act by taking us on a tour of their classic methode production areas, both of which shed light on the up to 30 month process used to make the wine we are about to discuss. Speaking of which, let’s move on to this non-vintage (NV) sparkling rosé.

This wine has been crafted using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. It was crafted using méthode traditionnelle or classic methode (in fact there are many ways to describe it) which composes of two fermentations: first is done in the normal manner then the wine is bottled and a secondary fermentation is done inside the bottle, thus creating and trapping the carbon dioxide in the bottle. Once this fermentation is complete, this wine in particular is aged on the lees (expended yeast) for 30 months. So what does all this mean? For most, not much, you either like Champagne styled wine or you do not. If you are on the fence then this is an excellent wine to jump in with. Cuvée Catherine is a very good offering, it has crispness, it is clean and it has the right amount of effervescence. The nose is neither overwhelmingly fruit nor sweet yet it has a good solid flavour. Overall this is an impressive selection by Viktoria, with Henry of Pelham most would have thought a premium Baco Noir or Speck Family Reserve wine would have been suggested, but she decidedly pointed to this pink beauty. I highly recommend grabbing a few for the next dinner party or special occasion, you will look smart and oenophile like when you bring this well-priced at $30.

The CWG subjective rating is 89 out of 100.

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2007 Malivoire Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir

The second day of the Niagara Wine Week started with a visit to Malivoire Wine Company. My history with Malivoire is both good and bad. In the early 2000’s I had one brilliant visit which yielded ample reds and whites in the cellar to enjoy over the following years. Some 3 years later the return visit was lacking and I got a feeling of hit or miss with this Beamsville Bench producer. With that in the back of my mind I pulled into the gravel driveway with the familiar futuristic Winery up and to the right. If you have not visited this vineyard you need to, the principle building by itself is a beautiful piece of work, with the operating winery right above the tasting room. The time and effort put into the building is visible and you are blessed with a gorgeous area to sip and learn about Martin Malivoire’s vision.

Planted originally in 1997, the Moira Vineyard is the original plot of the winery. Some six hectares dedicated to only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the burgundy principles, it often finds itself producing the best wines that Malivoire has to offer. This particular wine would probably be considered their flagship offering, which does lead me to state this. The object of the Niagara Wine Week was not to necessarily taste and review only the wineries best, but to also get a chance to taste the one offs or special wines you simply would not know of or hear of. This does not mean that Eric Nixon, the Presentation and Promotions Manager, failed at this task, it further proves how much the winery loves this wine. 2007 was a hot year, and unlike 2006 which was hot but finished wet and cold, ’07 has turned out to be an ideal vintage year from Stoney Creek to Niagara on the Lake. The 07′ vintage reds should prove to be one of the all-time best out of Niagara and most vineyard’s flagship reds are worthy of the money they are asking. This Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir shows many of the characteristics of this fantastic year. It is both bold and complex. So instead of babbling on about either the Beamsville Bench or the vineyard, click on the links and immerse yourself some more, or continue below and read the review of this Pinot.

We did not decant this wine, sometimes with Pinot’s I choose to let them play as they are, other times I feel that some aeration is deserved and the time is taken. This may seem sacrilegious to some, but everyone’s tastes, senses and ideas are different and I am not sold one way or another. To decant for 5 minutes should not be life or death for a wine. And alas, I do not think it made a tremendous amount here either. The wine had a nice inky colour into the glass and red fruit came rushing at my nostril with primarily black cherry and a hint or two of spice in the way of cinnamon to follow. Upon the first sip you will notice this is not a mellow laid back Pinot that can often times pass for the Niagara region’s version of Burgundy’s best. This wine is instantly in your face and had good strong tannins that, with solid fruit, indicate a nice maturing/cellaring in its future. A first guess would say 3 to 5 years will further add to the structure of the wine and may give even out its balance. Overall you will find a bold wine with strong red fruits and hints of spice and smoke. The tannins may lead some to find this wine overwhelming but more so if you consider it against the average Pinot from the region. This wine is strong and requires the right palate to truly appreciate it and at $59.95 a deep pocket book.

The CWG Subjective Rating is 88 out of 100.

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2008 Tawse Estate Spark

If you do not follow Niagara wine, or simply show a passing fancy, the name Tawse may mean little to you. To those with a slight bit of knowledge the name may simply mean Chardonnay. To anyone who has spent time in the region the winery is a great deal more than that. Well for the Canadian Wine Guy it has a double entendre, one is the winery which is Mrs. CWG chardonnay producer of choice; the second is the connection of the family Tawse to the Scottish clan my mother’s side comes from, the Farquharsons. While genealogy has nothing to do with this blog I am always fascinated that my own gene pool is intertwined with Moray Tawse the proprietor.

Where to start with the winery itself? In 2010 the winemaker Paul Pender and company brought home a plethora of awards in 2010 including Canadian Winery of the Year by Wine Access Magazine. Paul has since been named 2011 Winemaker of the Year at the Ontario Wine Awards. With all these accolades, one would think Dieter Unru, the retail manager at Tawse, would be pounding his chest and saying “look at us”, but this really is not the case. If you visit the winery you will see a man, and his staff, who are proud not of the awards but the wine itself. On our visit we were treated to an excellent overview of the current wines that were available as well as tidbits and stories on the process and the winemaking philosophy. While this is not unusual for a good winery, it is always a pleasant outcome. Dieter, when asked to suggest a wine for this review, selected the new Spark offering instead of a safer selection (be it their amazing Robyn’s Block Chardonnay or one of their outstanding Pinot’s), this in itself ‘sparks’ a confidence in their newest undertaking.

A rare sight on a bottle of classic methode wine from Niagara, the 2008 vintage is the first sign that this is an interesting bottle as most of the region’s sparkling wines rarely (if ever) have a vintage associated with them. The wine is crisp, clean and palate cleansing. It has an even acidity that helps pump up the underlying fruit aromas that come to your nose slowly and softly. Tart green apple is very apparently but hints of grapefruit and lemon (i was shocked by this) seep in. This wine was forward on the tongue but the complexity and balance are there. Overall this is an excellent sparkling wine, one that can be mentioned with some of the best that Niagara has to offer. Sadly (well maybe not if your view is to enjoy a winery visit) this is only available from the vineyard. At $39.95 it is on the higher side but if you are looking for quality you will find it here. Dieter, this is for you: excellent and unexpected choice, I knew you and Tawse were more than Chardonnay and it is nice to see it in this bottle.

The CWG subjective rating is 88 out of 100.

PS: the winery fresh eggs are worth the trip as well, how often can you buy great wine and get fresh warm free-range eggs?

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SANTA BRIGIDA COLLI DELLA TOSCANA CENTRALE 2001

In the continuing quest to insure I don’t let another bottle sit too long in the cellar and waste it I cracked this one. I’ve had it since 2007. The wine is dark in color with a lovely nose of oak and some dark berries coming through. On the mid pallet this wine is a smooth well balanced Sangiovese. Lovely cherries coming through and some oak. On the finish this wine shines. It’s long finish has some lovely dry pucker power, some cassis, some oak and a hint of alcohol. This wine has kept very well and would have life still left in it. Again, sadly it’s my last. Pout. Currently not in the LCBO. I would give it a solid 90-91. Good value for the money. Especially if you enjoy Sangiovese.

From the LCBO web site:
SANTA BRIGIDA COLLI DELLA TOSCANA CENTRALE 2001 IGT Toscana Tasting Note: Soft, ripe and delicious, with ripe fruit and blackberry character. Hints of cherries. Full, silky and long. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2006. Score – 90. (James Suckling, www.winespectator.com, Oct. 15, 2004)$22.75

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Day 2 & 3of Niagara Wine Week

Just a quick note to say that tonight there will be a post up about the first day’s (second) visit and wine from TAWSE. Day 2 included a visit to Malivoire and De Sousa Wine Cellers. Day 3 included a single, excellent, visit at Henry of Pelham. Until then a few pictures:



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2010 Coyote’s Run “Rare Vintage” Pinot Gris

For our Niagara Wine Week we start with our visit to Coyote’s Run Estate Winery a small winery that sits just below St. David’s bench in St. David’s, Ontario. This vineyard has started to make a name for itself in the past few years with their Pinot Noir offerings from both their principle vineyards, Red Paw and Black Paw. While it would have been easy to go for one of these better known wines, we choose to allow Brian Yeo, the winery’s Hospitality Manager, direct us to something different and in this case, quite unique.

The 2010 “Rare Vintage” Pinot Gris does not come from either of Coyote’s main vineyards but in fact comes from Four Mile Creek. It is also not considered a small lot as this is a one-off wine. I get the feeling that the winemaker (David Sheppard) will make one-off wines based on the challenge or superstar amongst the year’s growth on an ongoing basis, and this wine is one of those. I appreciate Brian taking the time to point us in this direction as Pinot Gris is simply not on our regular drinking list. This wine was barrel fermented in old Hungarian oak and it was an interesting ‘drink’, so let’s move on to the review.

A pale yellow, almost honey colour awaits you as it is poured. Immediately you will get a hint of vanilla and we had slight flowery undertone as you pass this under your nose. A few more sniffs start to bring the fruit to the table. After a good slurp, immediately you get a nice level of acidity and a wine that is smooth, almost luxurious. The apricot, pear and spices (nutmeg) all start to fill your senses as you work on your glass. Compared to most Pinot Gris’ you will find this much more challenging and exciting. It is not a simple wine that needs to be chilled and drank on the veranda and you could easily slip this to your favorite Chablis fan and have them work at determining it’s origins. A fun and enjoyable wine it will serve you well to head to Coyote’s Run to pick up this bottle. At $24.95 it is worth the extra few dollars and you will not be disappointed with the craftsmanship.

The CWG subjective rating is 87 out of 100.

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CWG First Annual Niagara Wine Week

I am down in Niagara for some much needed R&R, but unlike the last 20 odd vacations, there are no plans. Well there are plans to do very little besides drive Gertrude and play a few rounds of golf. So this means a great amount of time is free to hit up Niagara wineries, ask for their best of their best, drink them and review them.

So thus it begins the Canadian Wine Guy First Annual Wine Week.

Stay tuned, I believe today will be TAWSE and Coyote’s Run.

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